About Aglaonema (part2)

Description Aglaonema (part2)
Aglaonemas are not very particular to the soil quality, so any packaged soil is suitable. Make sure though to add some sand into the soil and some pebbles in the bottom of the pot to ensure excellent drainage which is necessary to these plants. Depending on the specific conditions of your home, watering once a week seems to be adequate. Check the soil before watering and do not let your plant live in soil that is always wet, also do not let it sit in water and always empty any excess water from the tray to avoid root rot. Take care not to let the plant go thirsty because the leaves will wilt and may never recover. You can repot any time of the year avoiding days with extreme heat or extreme cold in order not to stress your plant more than necessary. As far as humidity is concerned, provide as much humidity as possible either by using a humidifier, or with spraying the leaves. You could also use a pebble tray as we have described in various other articles. Do not worry too much though because aglaonemas can adapt to less humidity than most indoor plants. Use any liquid or tablet form fertilizer but use approximately ? of the dosage described on the label to avoid damaging the roots or the tips of its leaves. In very young plants, avoid fertilizing until the plant is around 6 months old, while in mature plants you should fertilize 3 times per year (every 4 months). You can easily propagate aglaonemas from cuttings. Cuttings can be placed in water until they grow roots or they can be planted directly into soil. Aglaonemas can grow in water for a long time, provided that you replace the water often and that you carefully remove any algae from the inside of the container. Same as pothos (devil's ivy), aglaonemas can be grown in small glass vases with water that can be placed on your bathtub or on window-sills, creating small tropical areas in minimum space. As we already mentioned, one of its basic advantages is that it is almost disease- and insect-proof. However, to be on the safe side, keep leaves very clean and check often for aphids, thrips, or spider mites that may have affected other indoor plants. You have plenty of good reasons to buy aglaonemas. They are beautiful, easy to grow, hardy, needs no specific care, it adapts easily, is suitable for low light rooms, with quick growth, even in water, extremely easy to propagate . . . what else could you ask for?

About Aglaonema

Decription-Aglaonema Take a quick look at the picture, you will definitely recognize a plant you have seen plenty of times. Aglaonema is one of the most favorite indoor plants, as it grows easily with minimum care and is ideal to even the most inexperienced amateur gardener. Its name is once more totally Greek and its parts are translated as "aglos: shiny nema: string. Regardless of the Greek origin of its name, aglaonemas come from the tropical forests of south-east Asia, from Thailand and Cambodia to Vietnam and Malaysia. The first time aglaonemas crossed their natural borders was around 1900 when the plant was brought to America and has been cultivated ever since. The first new varieties were developed in the 60s; those varieties led to the plants we know today as aglaonemas. However, new varieties are still being developed in the US mainly, the differences being in the color of its leaves. Aglaonemas belong to the aroids family, together with spathifyllum, dieffenbachia and philodentron. As its "relatives", it has shiny oval-shaped leaves, with jigged edges, fleshy to the touch and with impressive alternations of various tones of green. Its flowers look like small white callas and they produce a few yellow or red fruits. However, the basic reason for cultivating aglaonemas is their wonderful foliage and not its colors. Depending on the variety, its height can easily reach one meter or over. Care Aglaonema is one of the most ideal indoor plants. It is very resistant to disease and can be grown in conditions that might "kill" many other indoor plants. It can be easily adapted to different conditions and this trait makes it really easy to care for and as a result makes it very popular. Aglaonemas can be grown to any degree of lighting, from full-light rooms (filtered - never direct sunlight) to the darkest room of hour home. Of course, the more the light it gets the most impressive the colors on its leaves will be. If your problem is low light, aglaonemas are an ideal choice. Moreover, they can be easily grown together with other plants in the same pot. Although this is an indoor plant, in warm climates it can be cultivated outdoors as long as you keep it in a shaded area, preferably facing north. Aglaonemas love it warm and hate abrupt temperature changes and cold drafts. Ideally, temperatures should be between 18-30οC and the change in temperature between night and day should not be more than 10οC. A long time in either too low (<15ο)>35ο) temperatures may lead to yellowing of leaves or falling leaves and it will hinder its development to a great extent. So you're your plant around, to a warmer or cooler location depending on the temperatures and keep it away from drafts, i.e. next to windows or doors. When you decide where to place the pot, remember that temperatures are much lower close to windows than from any other area in your home during winter.

About Αnthurium

Description - Αnthurium (Part 2)
As the plant develops, its foliage and flowers turn quite heavy and need a stable root system to hold their weight. Every time you repot, add some pebbles or plastic pellets in the soil, in order to provide good drainage and because pebbles help roots to get a good grip.

The soil in the pot should be light, containing peat moss and perlite and should have excellent drainage. Water only when the soil feels dry to the touch, using plenty of water and remove any stagnant water from the dish of the pot (this will help avoid the annoying gnats as well).

The best way to water anthuriums is to place the whole pot into a bucket or dish with water and let it absorb as much water as it needs. You will know it is time to take it out when the babbles stop. Let it sit until all excess water drains and return it to its original location.

Although anthuriums are draught tolerant plants do not let them stay dry for long because their development will be reduced enormously. On the other hand, if you over water, its leaves will turn yellow and its roots will rot. Always cut off yellowing or dry leaves and spent flowers in order to help production of new buds.
As a rule, anthuriums (as all indoor plants) need to be at the spot where they can get as much light as possible. Always provide filtered light and not direct sun. Anthuriums will survive lower light situations but their blooming and development will be compromised.

Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you decide your plant could use a little help, use a slow release fertilizer in tablets or pellets and use half the dosage mentioned on the instruction tag. Remember that pellets should not come in direct contact with the trunk or stems of the plant. Also, make sure to select a fertilizer that enhances blooming and not foliage development.

Anthuriums are generally resistant to disease but may eventually be attacked by aphids, scale or thrips who constitute the most serious problem for anthuriums.

Usually you can notice insects on new growth or flower buds. Take immediate action and either use an insecticide you can buy at any nursery or use the non-toxic mixtures we have covered in many other care sheets. Whatever you decide to use, don't forget to spray the undersides of leaves and flowers which are favorite places for insects.

Especially for thrips, you should not waste time as thrips may destroy all the flowers since they attack the buds before they open up. In case a bud is attacked, when it opens up you will notice white lines or cuts on the surface of the flower which could also be slightly deformed. If you have chrysanthemums (mums) or orchids nearby be very alert because these plants are very prone to thirps. Any nursery can provide insecticides for thrips but you will need to spray more than once and always follow the instructions on the label.

Taking into account insects and disease in general, still the main (and most common) reason indoor plants die is root-rot because of over watering.

About Anthurium

Description - Origin
The photograph has definitely impressed you and you probably want to learn more about the anthurium, this impressive indoor plant. This plant is native to Hawaii and belongs into the same family of plants (araceae) as the spathifyllum, dieffenbachia, philodendron, and aglaonema. Just looking at them you will notice that the similarity of their foliage is obvious. As in the other members of this family, the anthurium is poisonous if ingested, so keep your plants away from small children or pets. Its flowers have the shape of a heart, are usually red in color and very long-lasting. The intervention of modern science has turned flowers into pink, white, green, orange or even bi-colors. Anthuriums are rich bloomers, flowering throughout the year and in some varieties the flowers have a very discreet and light fragrance. Anthuriums were originally greenhouse plants, cultivated with the only purpose of trading cut flowers. As an indoor plant, the anthurium was introduced as late as the 70s. Its flowers may look wonderful in your vase but let's cultivate anthuriums in a pot so that we can always enjoy its wonderful flowers inside our homes. Moreover, even when not blooming, the anthurium is still a beautiful foliage plant. Care Anthuriums are indoor plants. Even though they are not very hard to care for, they cannot stand any neglect. If the conditions are suitable, they bloom throughout the year and live for many years. Usually, blooming is richer in spring and summer but this is mainly because days are brighter and longer. In general, the average indoors temperature is suitable for anthuriums however you should avoid placing them at spots where there are drafts or temperatures fluctuate, e.g. next to outside doors, radiators or other heat producing appliances such as the TV. High temperatures may scorch the leaves, fade flower color and reduce their longevity. On the contrary, low temperatures will delay the plant's development and the bottom leaves will turn yellow and fall off. In case of frost, you can wave your anthurium good-bye as it cannot withstand freezing temperatures even for short periods. Mist its leaves often in order to provide humidity and clean both leaves and flowers with a wet sponge in order to keep it clean and to remove any insects that have attacked the plant. Use a humidifier or a tray of wet pebbles in order to provide the humidity needed. Anthuriums can be cultivated, always indoors, in pots, as independent plants or in groups. Repot only when the roots take over all the space of the pot, using a new pot that is only one size larger than the old one. Make sure to press hard on the soil while repotting to ensure that the plant does not need stakes or any other support. After repotting don't get alarmed if you see some leaves here and there turning yellow and falling off because the plant is only getting accustomed to the new conditions and it will soon recover.